By Alice Chin
Malan Breton‘s Fall/Winter 2017 Show opened with fanfare and a backdrop reminiscent of the golden age of cinema. The designer, who was a contestant on the 3rd season Project Runway, started his eponymous line in 2007 and is a maestro of drama.
The opening scene: couples of both and either genders twirl in sparkling gowns and gilded suits. The plot thickens: cue the sultry and glamorous double agent, outwardly gleaming and lustrous, inwardly conniving and self-serving.
The hues: jet black, shades of gray, and metallic silver echo silent films. Colors are mostly muted but there are flashes of gold, pink gold, and small bursts of flowers.
The fabrics and textures: sateen grays, floral jacquards, black and white houndstooth tweed, fur, velvet, and leather. The silhouettes: classic and feminine, nipped waists, gowns with bare shoulders and slits. Men looked dapper in checked suits and top hats, gold paired with black.
The show closed with an army of robotic models stepping in time to the soundtrack of the marching enemy footsteps, a relentless and sinister beat. Perhaps a reminder: All that glitters is not what it seem.