By Samantha Wu
Fresh-faced Phoebe English has rocketed into the fashion world having only graduated from Central Saint Martin’s MA Fashion last year. Armed with some impressive awards and debuting as one of Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones to Watch’ at London Fashion Week last year, it is unsurprising that this S/S13 collection was highly anticipated.
Today’s breathtaking show further proves that Phoebe English is worth keeping an eye out for. Along with Rose Easton – who is the business side and creative collaborator of the label Phoebe English – the pair formed its company English Easton Limited last summer.
The show consisted of ethereal outfits contrasted with edgy accessories both interlaced with geometric shapes – imagine an angel waking up from a grave, bathed in crepuscular sun rays.
Set in The Vestibule of Freemason’s Hall, the surroundings reflected the tone of collection. The stained glass windows and vestibule corresponded with the celestial clothing, whereas the three large iron gates forming part of the catwalk resonated with the robust and clunky design of the accessories.
The pieces were strictly monochrome in color, the models pale with hair neatly tucked into a large, low cylindrical roll. Phoebe contrasts this minimal look with daring jewelry and detailed tailoring. Most startling were the mouthpieces – an array of bronze or silver metal spikes projecting from the models’ mouths. This unique design was reminiscent of Hannibal Lecter’s mask and gave the show a sinister tone.
Organic forms compiled in geometric arrangements and interlocking shapes was a delicate and powerful theme in the show. Features included subtle folds gently clinching the flowing silhouettes into a feminine and sensual look. Shapes were a key feature of the collection; sleeves made of linked chains creating rhomboids, rippling patterns formed by bulge beading and dresses with circular back openings with rippling ruched edges. Phoebe manages to strike a fascinating balance between simplicity and sophistication; nature and synthetics.
Overall the collection is not commercially driven and somewhat experimental. Phoebe English is stocked exclusively at Dover Street Market but remains wearable by those seeking an understated look with a dark and rebellious twist.
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